LFW Day 1: Granny panties sexy for Sabya!
Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee's show closed Day 1 of Lakme Fashion Week 2010 on Friday. His models wore long, full-sleeved kurtas with necklines showing their innerwear paired with a skirt and granny underpants [!!!]. These were set off by a plaid scarf with shells, bulky bangles made of cloth, shoes decorated with beads and crystals, rose tinted glasses and a simple black bindi. All spelled just one thing: Bohemia! According to the designer this is how he portrays sexuality. Not thongs but granny underpants!
Mid-life crisis!
This is such a shift from the Sabyasachi woman we know in hand-woven saris and wearing full sleeves blouses buttoned up till the neck. When asked why the shift, the designer said, "It's very easy, it's called mid-life crisis! I realised that my clothes are reasonably boring sometimes. And there are times when I want to do a lot of things that are not really my sensibility. This is something that I should have done five years ago. I have discovered life myself, been there done that and it feels kind of jaded. That's why now I'm seeing life through rose-tinted glasses."
Baroque detailing
Sabya's clothes are all about block prints and mixing a lot of fabrics, garments, prints and discovering new and refreshing pairings. There is embroidery but no embellishments; but at Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort 2010, the designer used a lot of swarovski crystal, sequins, shimmer, prominent zipper details and in the designer's own words, "we tortured the sequins, burnt them, used needles to pierce holes into them, twisted them and beat them till they lost their original form. And we created a very baroque pattern on the garments."
Trip tease
This time around Sabya's woman wasn't the subdued intellectual, she is the explorer with a bandana and wild hair. She would show off her sexuality with a transparent black kurta, or a fully-covered flapper-inspired dress that teases with a naughty slit at the back. The designer loves to travel and his creations and the choice of background music reflected this. The models walked to the sound track of the movie Frida, followed by the soundtrack of Cinema Paradiso, La Vie En Rose, the Godfather soundtrack, Evita, and ended with a Spanish track called Besame Mucho. "The music is very definitive of the woman I want to dress," explained the designer.
Shells were generously used across chokers and platform heels designed by him.
Quotable quotes
Q: If Sabya had to cast either Vidya or Rani in a movie (that he plans to make) who will he choose?
S: If I really really had to make a choice, I will have to choose Rani because she has been a very good friend and she was instrumental in getting me into Bollywood. And I am very loyal that way. She is also Bengali and we share the same taste for fish and we gossip in Bengali.
Q: On designing for Samira habitats and interiors:
S: I feel I am better at designing interiors than clothes! (Model Bhawna nods in agreement!) In fact, some of the clothes that were shown today were influenced by interior designs.
Q: On completely changing Vidya's look!
S: I just asked Vidya to believe in herself and have faith. She is a very beautiful Indian woman, simple and extremely intelligent. But you know how people just push you into a particular slot. I advised her to be herself. Vidya is someone who can walk into a grocery store with her hair unwashed, say hello to her security guard and ask about his children. As an actor you need to open up to the world like that. Today she came for my show in a Bengal sari that costs Rs 650 and a LV bag. That is true style!
Q. On Indian handloom…
S: Every woman should buy atleast one Indian handloom sari a year. I love to work with handlooms.
Q. But your clothes are so expensive.
S. (Laughs) I am working on a more affordable collection that will cost between Rs 900 and Rs 2000.
Would you buy a Sabyasachi creation if it's priced between Rs 900 and Rs 2000? Leave us a comment and let us know.
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