Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Blew hot & cold!




Blew hot & cold!














There are some days when the mood alternates between cheery, sober and dark and Day 4 at Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort 2010 was no different!
But before we get into that here are the fashion takeaways for you to adapt to your wardrobe:
Drawstrings were used for altering yo-yo waistlines
Eco-consciousness ruled with natural fabrics (like linen, cotton and pure silks), natural dyes and prints inspired by nature like trees, leaves, birds, butterflies and more.
Wraps as separates or shirts and dresses are a huge hit on the ramp
Back zippers and side zips were visible rather than hidden.
An excess of fabrics is out! Use drapes, pleats and cowls for volume. -Military dressing with detailing on shoulders and sleeves is in!
Practical & eco-friendly It was kickstarted by emerging designers Shashikant Naidu, Purvi Doshi and Masaba Gupta. Since they are starting off, it is essential to work on designs that will make a lasting impression. Going by this formula, Shashikant did well with a collection of pure georgette and chiffon saris and loose-fitted single shoulder dresses in subtle eco-friendly colours of nature like rustic green, subdued red, beige, indigo blue and dull black. A strong believer of practical dressing, his clothes were very wearable and he added interesting detailing on the blouses with rusching [a sewing technique in which fabric or ribbon is gathered in a repeating pattern to form ruffles, scallops, or petals] techniques. Taking inspiration from Parvati, he wants women to feel like a Goddess in his clothes!
Be a chameleon!
Designer Purvi Doshi made an impact with dresses that can be worn in more than 10 different ways! Her collection was called Kahchindo (Gujarati for chameleon), because her clothes changed style, form and colour. Basically all her dresses were stitched as rectangles with drawstring threads in the centre and corners, geometric prints on one side and floral embroidery with mirror work on the other and each side had a different colour - mix of pinks, mustard yellow and red, green and blue.
By using the strings, the dresses can fit any size, create any silhouette, can be worn as a skirt or blouse. It can also be worn as a dress with ballon silhouette or cinched at the waist, single shoulders or straps, halters and low back or all covered up… it's entirely up to the wearer. She used thin silk because she needed a fabric that is not fluid and can stay in any desired form. She also had reversible saris in her collection with cobalt blue geometric patterns on one side and black with gold floral embroidery on the other. How's that for creative dressing?
Funky, colourful

Masaba Gupta made a statement with a burst of colours with her collection titled 'Chhalni' (courtesy; the generous use of net fabrics). White net saris were paired with printed skirts, pleated net tunics were paired with two piece swim wear, muls were used for beach maxis. Signature patch pocket saris paired with oversized nose rings and fedora contributed to this youthful, funky collection.
Butterfly effect
The mood shifted to a more matured level with label Myoho by designer duo Kiran and Meghna Agarwal's collection - The butterfly effect. It seemed that their silhouettes took inspiration from the pretty butterfly because the clothes were voluminous with fluid A-lines. Asymmetrical hemlines added to the flowy structure of the garments. Light silks were used for this effect in colour pairings like mustard yellow and rustic red, muted pink and earthy brown, jade and beige. Some garments had different colours on the front and back, while others had colour contrast on either sides of the mid panel. Each garment had a feminine, relaxed boho feel.
Easy, breezy
Rings and keys, painted black, used as tassels gave an interesting twist to designer Neha Agarwal's collection of dresses with drawstring, capris and shorts, wraps separates and blouses, sheers jackets in breezy soft cotton fabrics. Inspired by nature she used tree motifs throughout the collection in a palette of green, beige and ivory.
Boho ethnic
Taking the Boho ethnic feel forward was designer Paromita Banerjee's collection. Using cottons from Bengal, she created a creative feminine collection with red borders, saris paired with long skirts, wrap kurtas paired with churidaars in cheery colours of fresh green and yellow on a backgroud of beige.
Suicide on the ramp
The relaxed Boho mood shifted to dark and gothic with designer Kollol Dutta, Rimzim Dadu and Anand Kabra's collections. Dutta used themes of suicide, road-kill, cats that live in dark alleys, and prison for a collection of loose fitted dresses in black, red, green, and blue. Popular for his originality with prints the "kitty kat" motif was a favourite.
Eye for detail
The talented Rimzim Dadu has a keen eye for details. Owl motifs were created out of sequins, ripped leather and metal cut-outs. With accurate precision thin metal was cut to form separates and overlays that were paired with dresses, tops and shorts in shades of blue, beige, grey black, and tan. The designer gave a twist to the hem by stitching it not inside but outside and tying knots towards the hem.
Draupadi effect
Anand Kabra's collection was an extension of the serious and sober mood. He was inspired by Draupadi. In a palette of purple, black and deep violets he created dresses, zipper tunics (worn with the zip down with a peek of décolletage and bikini), wrapped LBDs, jumpsuits, fitted trousers with wrap blouses with the midriff exposed, pyjamas and some lovely saris in purple and beige. Most of his pieces were beautifully embellished with buttons and armours.
Zen, Zest & Zing!

The day ended with Satya Paul's breezy collection of saris, flowy maxi dresses and cocktails for his show titled - Zen, Zest, Zip, Zap and Zing. Summery tones of pink, blue and yellow with floral were screen-printed into his garments for a light floaty feel. He did away with excessive embellishment (except for a a few showstopping pieces) and used minimal sequin embroidery for a hint of glimmer. The spirit of summer was kept alive with whites shades, pretty 3-D rose appliqué and foil work to make a feminine statement while on a holiday.
Which designer collection did you like? Leave us a comment and let us know.

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